Our Plans Changed. So Did Our Destination: A Bulgaria Holiday

There are holidays you plan carefully, sometimes months in advance, and then there are the holidays that simply happen. Our Bulgaria holiday was definitely the second kind.

Our original plan for this year was northern Italy. We had a completely different itinerary in mind, different places saved on the map and a very different picture of what our summer trip would look like. And then life happened.

The Italy trip wasn’t going to happen anymore, so we had a choice: stay disappointed about the holiday we couldn’t take or find somewhere else to go. We chose the second option.

And that’s how, on a Thursday morning, we got into our car and started driving towards Bulgaria. I wasn’t expecting this to become one of those trips I would feel the need to write about afterward. It was supposed to be the alternative plan, the holiday we came up with when the original one didn’t work out.

But six days later, after exploring Sozopol, Nessebar, Burgas and Varna, I realized that sometimes an unexpected holiday can leave you with just as many memories as the one you spent months planning.

In This Guide

The Road Trip from Romania to Sozopol

Our first destination was Sozopol, on Bulgaria’s southern Black Sea coast. The drive took us around six hours or so, including two stops along the way. It is not an impossibly long journey, but it is long enough that you definitely feel it by the time you arrive.

One thing that made the drive easier was the fact that Romania and Bulgaria are now part of the Schengen area. We no longer had to sit at the border waiting to cross, which makes traveling between the two countries by car much more straightforward.

The roads, however, were a different story. There is no motorway covering the entire route we took, and some parts of the journey were slower and more tiring than we expected. There are also quite a few speed restrictions, some of which seemed rather difficult to understand from our perspective.

So if you’re considering a Bulgaria road trip, don’t calculate your journey based purely on kilometers. The distance might look short on a map, but the actual travel time can be a bit longer. Still, by around 4 PM, we finally arrived in Sozopol. And suddenly, the long drive didn’t matter quite so much anymore.

Our First Two Nights in Sozopol

We stayed at Blu Bay Hotel, and it was a beautiful introduction to our Bulgaria holiday. The hotel was elegant, modern, and very nicely designed. Our room was spacious and comfortable, but what really made an impression on me was the view. We were looking directly towards the marina.

After spending most of the day inside a car, seeing the boats, the water, and the little harbor below was exactly the kind of arrival I needed. It immediately felt like a holiday.

We had two nights in Sozopol, which gave us enough time to explore the Old Town, have dinner in a couple of different places and simply wander around without trying to squeeze every possible attraction into one day. And I really liked the atmosphere.

Sozopol Has a Little Bit of Croatia About It

One of the first things I noticed about Sozopol, Bulgaria, was how much it reminded me of the Croatian coast. Not exactly, of course. I’m not saying you will suddenly think you’ve arrived in Croatia. But there are similarities in the landscape and atmosphere that I couldn’t ignore.

Sozopol has little bays and stretches of land reaching into the sea, while the Old Town sits right on the coast, surrounded by water on several sides.

Then there are the houses. The combination of wood and stone, narrow streets and old buildings creates a very picturesque setting. You can wander through the Old Town and suddenly find yourself looking out towards the sea.

It has that particular feeling I love in coastal European towns: a little historic, a little romantic and very easy to photograph. If you’ve ever traveled through Croatia, you may recognize the feeling.

Our First Evening: Dinner in the Old Town

On our first evening in Sozopol, we had dinner at Sozopoli Wine & Food. It is tucked away on one of the narrow streets in the Old Town, and the restaurant itself is small and cozy. It was a pleasant first dinner, although the space felt a little cramped for my taste.

Still, there was something nice about sitting there on our first evening, finally relaxing after the drive and realizing that this unexpected trip was actually happening. We didn’t have a packed schedule. We didn’t have anywhere else we needed to be.

For the first time that day, we could just sit down and enjoy a relaxing evening.

Source: https://kralevgroup.com/galeriya/del-muro/

Dinner Above the Sea at Del Muro

For our second evening, we made a reservation at Del Muro, and this was a completely different experience. The restaurant is perched on the cliffs directly above the sea, with a beautiful terrace overlooking the water.

The setting was probably the highlight. There are restaurants where the food is the whole experience, and then there are places where the surroundings become part of the memory. Del Muro was definitely the second kind for us.

We enjoyed the food, the atmosphere, and, most of all, the view. It was one of those evenings when you sit at the table a little longer than necessary because you don’t really want to leave.

The prices are higher, though, and the location is clearly reflected in the bill. For us, it was worth doing once during the trip, especially because this wasn’t meant to be a budget holiday.

One Thing to Know Before Booking a Hotel in Sozopol

There was one downside to our stay that is worth mentioning, especially if you are a light sleeper. Our second night happened to be a weekend night, and the clubs around our hotel were loud. Really loud.

I’m a light sleeper, so I noticed it immediately. It wasn’t something that ruined our entire experience of Sozopol, but it definitely affected my sleep. So if you’re sensitive to noise, I would pay attention to where your hotel is located before booking.

Being close to the Old Town and nightlife can sound perfect when you’re looking at a map. At 2 AM, it can feel slightly less perfect.

Ravadinovo Castle: Our Love-Hate Stop

One afternoon, we drove just ten minutes from Sozopol to visit Ravadinovo Castle. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, and after seeing it, I’m still not entirely sure how I feel about it.

The first important thing to know is that this isn’t an ancient castle. It is a relatively modern construction dating back to the 2000s, designed to look like something from a fairy tale.

And some parts are genuinely beautiful. The gardens are extensive; there are plenty of decorative details and several areas that look almost magical in photographs.

But then there are the other parts. There are so many different styles, decorations, and architectural elements mixed together that the whole place can also feel quite kitschy. For us, it was a very definite love-hate experience.

What we found much harder to accept was the entrance price. We paid around €27 per person just for the gardens, without being able to visit the inside of the castle. That felt enormously expensive for what was included.

I’m glad we went because it was unusual and memorable, but it wouldn’t be high on my list of places to revisit.

From Sozopol to Nessebar

After two nights in Sozopol, we continued north towards our second main destination: Nessebar. The distance is only around 60 kilometers. Yet it took us approximately one hour and twenty minutes. Once again, the road infrastructure and speed restrictions made the journey much slower than the distance on the map would suggest.

But there was a nice feeling that came with changing destinations. We had already seen the marina, wandered through Sozopol’s Old Town, and had our cliffside dinner. Now it was time to discover Nessebar, Bulgaria.

And, unexpectedly, I ended up liking it even more.

Nessebar: The Place I Liked More

There was something about Nessebar that clicked with me almost immediately. Compared with Sozopol, it felt more spacious, greener, and more cared for. There were trees everywhere, little parks and green spaces that softened the urban landscape. The whole town seemed to have a slightly more relaxed rhythm.

And then there was the historic center. Nessebar Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and walking through it is probably the defining experience of visiting the city. The peninsula is surrounded by the sea, while the streets are lined with traditional houses, historic churches and old stone buildings.

Again, I couldn’t help thinking about Croatia. There is something very appealing about walking down an old stone street and seeing a patch of blue sea at the end of it. Nessebar has plenty of those moments.

A Few Imperfections Behind the Pretty Facade

Of course, no destination is perfect. Although Nessebar’s historic character is one of its biggest attractions, I did notice that not every old building has been renovated while strictly preserving its original style. Some houses look beautifully integrated into the historic setting, while others feel more modernized.

It doesn’t take away from the overall charm, but it is something I noticed because the architecture is such an important part of the experience. And despite the crowds, I still enjoyed wandering through the Old Town.

We Accidentally Arrived During a National Holiday

One thing we hadn’t planned for was the timing. Without really knowing it beforehand, we arrived in Bulgaria during a national holiday. And Nessebar was busy, especially the Old Town.

There were plenty of people around, but surprisingly, it didn’t bother me as much as I expected. The town felt busy rather than completely overwhelmed, and we could still walk around comfortably.

That said, if you prefer quiet streets and fewer tourists, I’d definitely take the timing into consideration when planning a Bulgaria holiday.

Staying at Marina Palace by Melia

Our hotel in Nessebar was Marina Palace by Melia. Once again, we had a spacious room, which made the stay comfortable. The hotel also offered an all-inclusive-style dining experience. It was convenient, especially when we wanted to have a slower day without worrying about finding somewhere to eat.

The food, however, wasn’t particularly memorable. It was fine, but it wasn’t the kind of food that would make me choose a hotel specifically because of its dining. The rooms also weren’t quite as beautiful or elegant as those at Blu Bay in Sozopol.

On the other hand, Marina Palace was peaceful, and the location was convenient. We were close enough to the Old Town to walk there easily, which was something I really appreciated.

The Sea in Nessebar Was Beautiful

The sea was another reason I enjoyed Nessebar. We spent some time at the beach, and compared with Sozopol, the water seemed warmer, clearer and calmer. It was exactly what I wanted from a summer holiday.

After several days of driving and exploring, there is something incredibly satisfying about simply sitting near the sea and knowing you don’t have to go anywhere. We could swim, sit on the beach. and just relax without doing anything special.

And sometimes doing nothing is the best part of a holiday.

A Day Trip to Burgas

On the penultimate day of our stay in Nessebar, we decided to visit Burgas. It was a nice contrast to the two historic towns. Sozopol and Nessebar are both strongly defined by their Old Towns and coastal architecture, while Burgas felt more urban and modern.

It gave us another perspective on the Bulgarian Black Sea Coast and broke up the rhythm of our trip. It wasn’t necessarily the most memorable stop, but it was an easy and pleasant day trip and gave us something different to see before heading home.

Our Last Detour: Evksinograd Palace and Varna

Eventually, it was time to head home. But we still had one more stop planned. On our way back, we decided to make a detour towards Evksinograd Palace near Varna. Unfortunately, we hadn’t realized that the palace requires a reservation in advance. So, once again, our plans changed.

Instead of simply driving home, we continued into Varna. And this ended up being a surprisingly nice final stop. We walked through the city center, had lunch at a terrace and explored the area for a while. I was actually surprised by how clean the city was, particularly the center. The park was also beautifully maintained and made for a lovely place to walk around.

It wasn’t the attraction we’d originally planned to see. But by this point, we were getting quite used to plans changing. And perhaps that was the whole theme of this trip.

Would I Choose Sozopol and Nessebar for a Bulgaria Holiday?

After six days on the Bulgarian Black Sea coast, I came away with a pretty simple impression: Sozopol and Nessebar offer two different versions of a coastal Bulgaria holiday.

Sozopol felt more intimate and slightly more bohemian to me. I loved its Old Town, marina and coastal setting, although I would be careful about choosing accommodation in a noisy nightlife area if you are sensitive to sound.

Nessebar felt greener, more spacious and a little more polished. Its UNESCO-listed historic center gives it a strong cultural identity, while the beaches and beautiful sea make it easy to slow down between sightseeing sessions.

And I think that is what makes combining the two interesting. You don’t have to choose between a beach holiday and a city break. You can have a little bit of both.

Spend the morning wandering through old streets, have lunch overlooking the water, spend the afternoon at the beach, and then go out for dinner as the sun starts to disappear. For a six-day Bulgaria holiday, that balance worked really well for us.

Maybe the Best Part Was That We Didn’t Plan It

Looking back now, the funny thing is that none of this was supposed to happen. We were supposed to be in northern Italy. Instead, we drove to Bulgaria.

We didn’t see the Italian lakes we had imagined. We didn’t explore the towns we’d saved on our original itinerary, and didn’t take the trip we’d spent so much time thinking about. But we did discover something completely different.

We found beautiful old towns by the Black Sea, and had dinner on a terrace above the sea. The first two days, we woke up overlooking the marina in Sozopol. Then, we swam in warm, clear water in Nessebar. We wandered through green spaces in Varna. We visited a strange, extravagant castle and had more than one moment when our plans changed completely.

And somewhere along the way, I stopped comparing this trip with the one we were supposed to take. Maybe that is what I liked most about it. Travel doesn’t always need to be perfect.

Sometimes the hotel is noisy. Sometimes the road takes longer than expected. Other times, the attraction you drove to see requires a reservation you didn’t know about. Occasionally, you end up somewhere you never planned to visit, and you make the best of it.

This wasn’t the holiday we planned. It was the holiday that happened. And, unexpectedly, our six days in Sozopol and Nessebar, Bulgaria, gave us a collection of memories I wouldn’t trade for the itinerary we originally had on our screen.

Life happened. We went to Bulgaria, and I’m actually glad we did.